I rode about 500 kilometers through Tohoku over a week’s time on a Giant Escape R3 I purchased this past March. I rode on tires with a 28mm width which I found to be comfortable on most surfaces. No flats or troubles to speak of. I stayed mostly in minshuku (low cost Japanese inns), so I packed relatively light, carrying only a slim backpack for clothes and a saddle bag for lunch, maps, camera, and tools.
Maps:
For navigation I used Touring Mapple-Tohoku. It’s a Japanese map guide for motorcyclists. Even if you can’t read japanese I suggest buying this book in conjunction with an English map because it is very detailed. Minor roads and larger routes are all listed. Major routes follow a number system, so it is not so hard to understand. In addition recommended routes are highlighted in purple. If you get lost, at the least you can show a Japanese person the map and they can show you how to get to where you want to go without saying a word. I will explain how to use Mapple in another article.
I also used Takashi Niwa’s bilingual Cycling Japan which gives details on ten of the best cycling routes throughout Japan. There are great pictures inside and maps are easy to read. If you stick strictly to the recommended Shimo Kita hanto route in this book and you have a good sense of direction, you probably don’t need any other maps.
Accommodations:
As I stated before I stayed mostly in minshukus, with the exception of the youth hostel in Wakinosawa and a co-workers house in Kazuno city. The average cost for a minshuku in the areas of this trip is 6000 yen which includes breakfast and dinner. Family run minshuku usually provide an excellent sampling of local cuisine at a cost value that is phenomenal.
I found places to stay on various Japanese websites, so if japanese is a bit daunting, here is a list of places I stayed along the way:
Tazawako- Beach House Kosui- 0187-43-0396
Towadako- Kokumin Minshuku Towadako Onsen- 0176-75-2041
Ogawarako- Yasuragiso- 0176-59-3388
Ohata- Matsunoki- 0175-34-2467
Sai- Miyano- 0175-38-2631
Wakinosawa- Youth Hostel- 0175-44-2341
On the left is a view from my room
in Miyano , a family run minshuku in
Sai village on the western coast of the
Shimo Kita peninsula. Miyano has
great food and is right off the main
road for easy access.
The Route:The general route I made was based on two sources: the kancycling website and Cycling Japan. Part of my route was determined by where I would stay and some specific sites I wanted to see. I took a night train from Tokyo to Akita (12,500 yen) and began cycling from there.
Day One August 18: 80 kilometers (6 hours of cycling)
Start: Akita Station (Mapple pg65) Finish: Beach side Tazawako (Mapple pg67)
Main points: A stop in Kakunodate for lunch.
Statue of Tatsuko たつこ像
Kosui Beach House
Roads: Head east on route 62. Lighter traffic compared to
route 13 straight from Akita秋田.
At the Kawabe河辺 traffic light turn left on 13 for
Kakunodate角館. Akita station to Kakunodate is
54 kilometers.
Next head north on 105 about 15 kilometers and
turn right on 60. 60 is a great road. Lots of shade
and the sound of rushing streams all about. When
you see the lake turn left for Tatsuko, then turn
around and work your way around the lake to the
opposite side for accommodations. You will pass a
yacht harbor and a prefectural forest along the way.
When you see swan boats on a thin beach, you’ve
made it to the other side.
Day Two August 19: Between 75 and 80 kilometers (7 hours on the road)
Start: Tazawako Finish: Kazuno鹿角 City office (Mapple pg 84)
Main Points: A long series of tunnels heading into mountain country
Great views of Tamagawa dam
After an arduous uphill morning climb, a descent into storybook countryside
Important: There are no shops for about the first 40 kilometers in the morning, so buy snacks the night before in stores around Tazawako.
Roads: From the beach area take the road heading east
and turn left at route 341. After about five kilo-
meters you come to your first tunnel. Most of the
tunnels have adequate sidewalks, but some are
quite narrow, so make sure have your flashers on.
After 50 kilometers or so, you will come to Shin Hachi
mantai bashi新八幡平橋 traffic light. There you will continue
north on 282. Do not turn left at 22 just before 282.
From there it’s only 10 kilometers to the city office.
Note: The city office was where I met co-workers, so it is not
practical for anyone else. On 282 in Kazuno there is an
inn called 五の宮の湯 (go no miya no yu) listed in the
Mapple guide. Ph# 0186-32-3300. Two meals and a room: ¥7,250. Never been there, so can’t rate it.
Day Three August 20: Around 40 kilometers (A slow 4 hour cycling pace)_Start: Kazuno Finish: Towadako Kokuminshuku onsen area (Mapple pg 89)
Main Points: Jomon Oyu stone circle
Towadako viewing platform
Ethereal Towadako shrine
Roads: Head north on 66 about 10 kilometers. The stone circle is on the left. In the visitor’s center you can pick up an English guide of the area. From the stone circle proceed north to 103 and turn right. It’s another 15-20 kilometers to the viewing platform. Descend to the lake and turn right.
It’s about 8 kilometers to the hotel area.
Note: The road that winds on down to the lake side has a rough surface. In addition the numerous bridges have uneven seams that are quite troublesome on thin tires, so watch your speed.
Day four August 21: Around 80-85 kilometers (7 hours of cycling)
Start: Towadako lakeside Finish: Misawa Shimin mori (Mapple pg 95)
Main Points: Lush Oirase Gorge
Farmland and Hokkoda San
Lakeside Ogawarako
Roads: Work your way north lakeside to Oirase Gorge.
Heading north via Utarube 宇樽部tunnel is also
possible. At the end of Oirase follow 103 north
towards Hakkoda. This section is roughly a 10
kilometer climb to route 394. Soon you will reach
Tsuta蔦温泉onsen where snacks can be purchased.
About halfway to 394 you will come to a road with
a wooden sign posting for a cycling road and a park
area. The blue traffic sign combined with the
mention of Hakkoda on the wooden sign is confusing, but
continue winding on the main road. At 394 turn
right. From here the road levels out and it is
possible to steal views of Hakkoda san from time
to time. After passing route 40, the next big land
mark is Wada和田dam. Approaching the town
area, follow the signs for Ogawarako. Next follow
route 8 towards Misawa. 8 is the road parallel to the
train line. It is a busy road so take care. Turn left on
170 and head to Misawa Shimin mori. You will pass
an American airforce base. Yasuragiso and Misawa Onsen
are located in Misawa forest.
Day Five August 22: 115~120 kilometers (7 hours of cycling)
Start: Misawa Finish: Ohata大畑 (Mapple pg 103)
Main Points: Great views of the Pacific Ocean
Shiriyazaki 尻屋崎Lighthouse灯台
Route 266’s country road feel
Roads: Head north onto 338. You’ll hit some hilly
ocean side views as you run through Rokkasho六ヶ所
and other tiny towns. After about 40 kilometers 338 starts
running west, but you will continue northward on route 248.
Keep your eyes open for signs to Shiriyazaki. Bear left
as 248 merges into 172. In another 4 or 5 kilometers
turn right on route 6 and shoot straight up to the cape.
Then turn back and follow 6 past 172. Five or six kilometers
after passing 172 you’ll come to 266. Keep your eyes open for
Usunosawa薄野沢. 266 narrows and widens quite abruptly
throughout so take care. At 279 turn right up towards Ohata.
If you’re staying in Matsunoki, head straight past the
circle k convenience store in Ohata. After about 20
minutes and some hills turn right at the gas station.
Matsunoki is a few minutes down the way on the left.
Days six and seven August 23 & 24: About 100 kilometers (About 7 hours cycling) Start: Ohata Finish: Wakinosawa (Mapple pg 100) Main Points: Omazaki and big ocean Hotokegaura Wakinosawa’s animals The road: 279 and 338. It’s virtually impossible to get lost. Count yourself as an unique individual if somehow you lose your way. From Sai to Wakinosawa the road winds quite a bit with quick rises and descents, so be wary of your speed.
Back to Tokyo August 25 & 26: A ferry leaves for Aomori twice a day, 8:30 & 14:00. It costs ¥2540. It costs about another 700 yen to transport your bike. The Akebono night train departs Aomori station around six in the evening.
