In the summer 2009 edition of Jitenshajin自転車人 magazine a series of long rides were introduced throughout Japan. Of the rides showcased I found the Azuma Bandai route in Fukushima to be the most interesting because of the toll roads that were reccommended: The Bandai Azuma磐梯吾妻Skylineスカイライン; the Bandai Azuma Lake line レークライン; and the Bandai San Gold line ゴールドライン.
This trip spans 150 kilometers and starts at Fukushima station. With elevation reaching 1600 meters on the Skyline nearby Azuma kofuji小富士 and rapid descents, I was shivering from time to time despite wearing long sleeves and leg warmers. The contrasting scenery of volcanic landscapes and richly forested mountains and lakes makes for an enthralling jaunt. Top it off with a visit to the historic sites of Aizu Wakamatsu 会津若松 and you have yourself a well-balanced visit to Fukushima.
Maps: Touring Mapple-Tohoku is good, but a simple road map for Fukushima might be best. On your entrance to the Skyline toll road a spartan touring map of the region is available.
Accommodation: There are a slew of pensions around Hibarako, along with a youth hostel and kokumin minshuku near goshiki numa 五色沼. I stayed at a pension called Furaigo風来坊. Two meals and a room was ¥8400.
Getting There: Bullet trains cost about ¥8700 to Fukushima station and take an hour and 38 minutes from Tokyo station. I took a night bus which got me to the station around 5am. However they begrudgingly accepted my bicycle as luggage and most bus companies have policies that do not permit bicycles. Each company is different so check beforehand.
Returning to Tokyo from Aizu Wakamatsu: Take a train to Koriyama郡山 and change there for the bullet train back to Tokyo. From Aizu Wakamatsu, it will cost about ¥9000.
Cycling Time: The first day of cycling the mountains was about 6 hours. Including breaks and visits to sites, the day wound out to 8 hours. The second day was much easier and only required 3 or 4 hours of cycling, which allowed lots of time for sightseeing in Aizu Wakamatsu.
The route and highlights: Take the west exit from Fukushima and veer right around Ito Yokado. You will pass a Family Mart and a Denny’s a few minutes later.
Go straight and you will see signs for route 70 and Azuma in the distance.
It’s an ascending bee line to the Skyline toll booth. It costs under ¥200 for a bicycle.
Passing over Tsubakuro valley
Approaching Azuma and its volcanic landscape.
Upon exiting the Skyline road after a nice descent, you will come to a y-intersection. Veer right and follow that road to its end and follow the signs for the Lake line.
Views along the Lake line: Akimotoko and Onogawako
Upon exiting the Lake line you will pay the toll. Head straight on down to the intersection and turn left for Goshikinuma.
Views of Bishomonko
Turn back up the road. Near the 7/11 there is an information center. They have maps and information for accommodation.
Sunset view from my room in Furaigo
Day Two
Take route 2 up the perimeter of Hibarako and work your way over to route 64 which will then lead to the Gold Line.
Here are some shots of the area along the way.
The Goldline is a climb for 7 or 8 kilometers and then a descent into flat farmland and busy roads. If you are heading to Inawashiro both route 7 and especially route 49 are busy unpleasant roads to cycle on. If you are heading straight for the station go down 64 which leads into Aizu Wakamatsu. Keep going until you see a huge McDonalds on the right hand side and turn right. It’s a few minutes before you reach the station.
Here are a few more shots of the Gold line and Aizu Wakamatsu.
The Gold Line beneath Bandai.
Overlooking Inawashiro lake.
A sign on the Gold Line for Maboroshi waterfall. You should take a look.
Off of route 49, Aizu Mura’s symbol dominates the skyline.
Byakkotai白虎隊 graves atop Iimori hill 飯盛山.
