The Healthy Road and Kyu Nakasendo

Random shot of cycling race in Kuki.

Overcast skies left me feeling a bit lethargic and the Healthy Road wasn’t doing it for me today, so instead of going to Kumagaya I took the Kyu Nakasendo back home. It parallels route 17 and the Takasaki line, so it’s possible to get a feel for all of the small towns without being overwhelmed with traffic. In Kuki there was a bike race that I took some pictures of. When it gets warmer I will go back to the Healthy Road and link it with a bunch Jitensha Sanpo routes to make a great North-South Saitama ride.

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Ijuin Hikaru No Hanashi

I’m borrowing a collection of short stories entitled Ijuin Hikaru No Hanashi by Ijuin Hikaru. I flipped through the table of contents to find a story that might be relevant to cycling and I found this short about aerial maps called “Roji Ura” No Hanashi「路地裏」の話(‘Back Alleys’Story). I refer to maps constantly when I cycle, hence the tenuous connection to bicycles. Here is a very rough first draft translation of the story.

I’m into aerial photographs. I bought a computer program for maps at a store that enables aerial photographic views and took a look at the town I was born and raised in. I could enlarge central Tokyo to a scale of 1:5000 and shitamachi to 1:10000 and though my roof was neither large nor small I pulled it up on the computer screen in 12 minutes. The elementary school and baseball field appeared nice and large. Looking at the aerial view I saw the route I used to take from my house to school and memories arrived of the way I enjoyed that route. I’d head out from the back entrance of my house, the picture barely showed the alleyway I’d head through. Then I’d go to Kondo Kun’s house and call up for the irrepressible Kon-chan. Me and Konchan would then head up the alley and the park and move on along the road with the candy store and the lumber store up to the factory with the pointless steel frame laying out front and cross it like a balance beam. After that we’d pass this disheveled store we called the haunted house, pass the stationary store and on to school.

The overhead shots were recently taken so some buildings were long gone and planned roads were completed. The steel frame was no longer there either and the area where the haunted house stood had apartment complexes in its place. But this didn’t stop the memories from flowing from the picture. This was where the first convenience store in the area near my house was built. On Sunday mornings when my parents thought it was too much of a pain to prepare food and everyone’s schedule was all over the place, we’d buy bread at the convenience store as a last resort since the normal bakery and supermarket weren’t open on Sundays. At that time I loved a brand of cup ramen called “Hachin” that had a TV commercial with Komatsu 政夫… There’s no way that this high-tech computer software could include something like “Hachin” but the memories kept flooding back.

In the first grade I’d go to Kihara-kun’s house on my way to school, but there was this scary dog, so I’d take a circuitous route, but eventually I got used to the dog and we became friendly enough to feed it some leftover bread after school. I lost touch with Kihara-kun because I went to a different junior high school, but I heard rumors from some neighbors that the dog had passed on, which made me feel so sad.

In the fourth grade there was this older kid called K-kun at the park who was a fighter so whenever I passed by a feeling of doom encompassed me. I would be at a loss at what to do and just go home. I would constantly say to myself I didn’t see him and would at all costs never forget this but I would imagine K-kun and 4 or 5 others rush me, with my prayers unanswered. At that time my mother incidentally stopped by the park to ask me to pick up some tofu from the nearby supermarket. The older boy was not in sight. Relieved, I then heard K-kun’s voice from the top of the wisteria tressle above the sandbox. “Ken! Can you help me get down from here.” K-kun hurt his foot. After he got down I thought he needed to ice his foot so I went to the candy store and bought two ice creams. After we iced it, the two of us ate. I didn’t know what happened because K-kun didn’t say and I didn’t ask.

After K-kun went home, I thought I would buy tofu but since I had bought ice cream I didn’t have enough money, so I only bought one container. “I ate ice cream, so I could only buy one container of tofu,” I said to my mother, who yelled at me for that. She yelled so much that I felt like I shouldn’t have helped K-kun out of that jam.

In kindergarten at this pharmacy with a post box in front of it, it was popular to mail new picture postcards with no name or anything else written on it. Over many long days postcards were put in the box. I couldn’t recall the psychological situation of that time. Aerial photographs sure are interesting.

The Girl In The Pink Dress

I’ve been reading Murakami Haruki’s Hard Boiled Wonderland in Japanese and its proving to be a bear of a story to get through, however there is a song that the girl in the pink dress sings at the end of part one that is about bicycles and  I would like to translate it here. Of course there is an official English translation of the entire book but I’ve refrained from reading it.

On an April morning I head down to a forest on a road I don’t know on a bicycle I just bought. And its pink. Pink handles and saddle. Everything’s pink, even the brakes are pink.

On an April morning I look good in pink. No other colors will do. Riding my new bike with my pink shoes, hat sweater… it’s all pink… panties… it’s all pink.

Met an old man on the street and his clothes are blue. Everything’s blue. The whiskers he forgot to shave are blue. The long evening is a deep blue. The long long night is blue.

Iwatsuki Park

Iwatsuki is famous for traditional dolls and has a history hall for dolls near the station. It is also the 6th recommended route in Jitensha Sanpo. It is a 45 km ride but we only took in half the ride, going through town to Iwatsuki Park and along the Moto Arakawa. Very pleasant ride if you live in the area.


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Love the news feed on the vending machine.(Iwatsuki Park)

Old train car sits in Iwatsuki Park. Kids can play with the gadgets in the booth. The car is heated!

 

The Moto Arakawa

 

I can’t stop listening to this song

I listen to this song three or four times a day.

Dodaira 堂平山 Tenmondai 天文台

Mannequins in battle fatigues next to an American flag on Rt 172 heading to Shiraishi Toge

Last week I talked to this guy while I was on my ride in Ranzan and he told me that many cyclists head up to a mountain in Chichibu called Dodaira which has an observatory at the top. I did some googling and found that it is a place visited by cyclists on a regular basis. I decided to give it a try despite my poor pedigree for climbing. I ended up riding more than a 100 km combining the Kumagaya and Ranzan rides with the jaunt up the mountain. From Higashi Matsuyama I took 345 and 27 to the Arakawa cycling road. They are boring but quick and manageable roads, however I prefer passing through Hyakuana and Hakocho to get back to the cycling road because there is far less traffic and there are interesting sites to see.

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Mt. Asama in the distance

The observatory at the peak

One of the roads at Shiraishi Toge was snowed in. 172 was a little icy in some spots, but didn't scare off any cyclists. The Tenmondai road from Shiraishi Toge had many icy patches. Be careful up there.

At marker 3.6Km up to Shiraishi Toge there is a water spring to the side of the road.

Love the road heading into the woods from Fuefuki Toge

One more shot of off roading

Yoshimi Hyakuana/Hyakketsu And Cliffside Shrine

Yoshimi Hyakuana is a historical site in Yoshimi town near Higashi Matsuyama station on the Tobu Tojo line in Saitama prefecture that can be reached on the Kumagaya ride. The Yoshimi town website has an English explanation of this place, so I will refrain from saying too much about it except that the holes and tunnels were created hundreds of years apart from each other for very different reasons. Here are some pictures.

The tombs were built in the 7th century

Tunnels built as a munitions factory in WWII

50 meters away from Hyakuana

Fuefuki Toge off roading

My favorite episode in Japanese history is that of Nitta Yoshisada the night before a battle against the Hojo, who wrested power from the imperial family by establishing military dominance in the west. Nitta Yoshisada became a vassal of the emperor Go-Daigo and organized an attack on Hojo in Kamakura. As told  in William Griffis’s “The Mikado’s Empire” Yoshisada went to the shore of Inamura Saki just outside of Kamakura to make an appeal: “…I humbly pray thee, O God of the Sea, to look into my loyal heart; command the tide to ebb and open a path.” Griffis goes on to paint a picture of the warrior throwing his sword into the sea, “..in the sight of heaven…” “…the golden hilt gleamed for a moment in the air, and the sword sunk from sight.” “The next morning the tide had ebbed.” And Yoshisada destroyed Kamakura, thus re-establishing imperial rule in the west. Yoshisada continued to fight for Go-Daigo until his death in 1338(Again, a story recreated in Griffis “The Mikado’s Empire”). Griffis writes with so much attention to drama that it is difficult to remove the narrative from one’s mind, which is why I found a visit to Fuefuki Toge a touch more interesting than the average rest stop. According to the sign, Nitta Yoshimune(fighting for Muneyoshi Shinnou, a sibling of the emperor), son of Yoshisada, after losing battles to Ashikaga Takauji at Kote Sashi Ga Hara retreated to this place with his troops in 1352. These battles were quite decisive and led to Ashikaga’s rule over all of Kanto. Under the light of the moon Muneyoshi Shinnou played a flute and from that time on the area became known as Fuefuki Toge.

Fuefuki Toge is the halfway point of a 5 km offroad jaunt that is part of a 22 km ride through Ranzan Saitama, which is the 11th ride highlighted in the Saitama Chiba Jitensha Sanpo cycling guide. The offroad path is called the Junrei Kaido due to its location between Banto 10 Ban Iwazono Kanon and Do Kyu Ban No Jikou Kanon. After passing Fuefuki Toge head deeper into the woods and you will come to a black sign on the left after a few hundred meters. Turn left at this sign and venture further. The path is not well-maintained which gives the sense that you are on the wrong path, but eventually you’ll reach pavement where you will turn right and head towards Shogun Zawa, a place with connections to the 88 temple pilgrimage in Shikoku. The off road portions of this ride are untraveled by most, which adds to the initmacy of the woods. Unfortunately the off road portion following the crossing of Kansui bashi has been closed, so you will have to turn right and head to a paved road.

As you will see from the map, I integrated the Kumagaya ride by linking route 11 to Ogawa Machi. After Kansui bashi I rode along the Tokigawa for a ways doing some back tracking. I crossed Tsukida Bashi月田橋 and then took some back roads and route 41 to Higashi Matsuyama to bring it back to the Kumagaya ride. From the Arakawa I rode back to Saitama City. The Ranzan ride proper starts and ends at Ogawa Machi Michi No Eki. Ogawa Machi is well-known for its crafts and is called little Kyoto. What is less known is that the name Ranzan, as written in Jitensha Sanpo, was given by a forestry professor in 1928 named Seiroku Honda who was struck by the area’s resemblance to Arashiyama in Kyoto. Ranzan and Arashiyama are two different readings of the same kanji: 嵐山.

Here is the map along with some pictures. I will go into more detail another time.


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Jun Rei Kaido- Heading to Fuefuki Toge

Two simple signs mark Fuefuki Toge

The track cleans up a bit after about 2km of a path covered in leaves and surrounded in young bamboo.

Shogun Zawa's Shikoku 88 temple course

Approaching Kan Sui Bashi

First time to Fukaya

Again I took a recommended ride in the Jitensha Sanpo guide and headed up to Fukaya station on the Takasaki line. As always I got lost and a 27 kilometer ride turned into a 47 kilometer ride. I wanted to go up there because of a river crossing for the Tonegawa at a place called Shimamura Watashi(島村渡し). Bicycles can be carried onto the small boats. Unfortunately repairs are being made to the boarding points that were damaged during a typhoon last year. The Ojisan in the office said they will resume service sometime in March of this year. If the river crossing is not in service, head five kilometers northward along the Tonegawa cycling road to Banto Bridge(板東橋). Cross the bridge and head towards the Shimamura crossing where at that point it is possible to link back up to the route.  Fukaya is famous for green onions and was once the center for the brick-making industry. The ride takes you to historically relevant buildings and museums that highlight local figures of note such as Eiichi Fujisawa.There are two cycling paths that run parallel to each other that both start relatively close to the station and head in the direction of the Tonegawa. Both of these roads end at Koyamagawa, so from there it is necessary to take local roads up to the Tonegawa. If you head past the the koban located to the right of Fukaya station you will see sign green signs and paths for pedestrians and cyclists. When you come to your first intersection, cross the street and turn right and you will see that the path continues on the left. The return road runs along the Karasawagawa. Here is my confused route and some pictures along the way.

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Two minutes to the right of the station you will see green signs for a cycling path.

The first part of the path lets out at this intersection. Cross the street and you'll find the path continues on the left.

The path continues marked by wooden signs. Bicycles on the left.

First glimpse of mountains in Gunma.

Along the Hirose Gawa cycling road in Isesaki city, Gunma.

The network of cycling roads offer great mountain views.

The Shimamura river crossing closed until March.

Again to Kumagaya

I finally did not get lost and hit all of the points minus the yakitori shops and tori in Higashi Matsuyama noted in the Jitensha Sanpo ride. I finished up early so I took the cycling road back to Omiya. Northerly winds propelled me so it only took 90 minutes to get home from Yoshimi. I will map out the best route through pictures on a separate page sometime soon.


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Forested roads on the way to Jigoku Numa

Jigoku Numa

According to Jitensha Sanpo this spirit protects passing travelers.

Sitting Buddhas at Yoshimi Kanon Temple near Yachoko.

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